FIRST TASTE: Volacus Granites 2025

By Yiannis Karakasis MW

Granites is Volacus winery's new ambitious wine, celebrating the winery's 10-year story. The blend combines 40% Potamisi, 40% Assyrtiko, and 20% Malagousia. Assyrtiko may be the best-known name, but I wanted to look more closely at Potamisi. It is still rarely seen on a label (Vaptistis in Tinos and Tranambelo in Naxos) and even more rarely given such an important role in a blend.

Did this new wine begin with Potamisi or with a particular style or idea in mind? Producer Michalis Kontizas, one of the kindest people in Greek wine, says it began with the variety. “I liked its generosity and wanted to see what it could do if we allowed it to be the key player in the wine. Potamisi also has a distinctive herbal character which, combined with Assyrtiko’s natural brightness and energy, makes for an interesting marriage.”

The Potamisi comes from own-rooted, 80-year-old vines around Falatados. Its fruit has an almost sweet ripeness, complemented by herbs and fresher green notes. On the other hand, Assyrtiko adds firmness, while Malagousia lifts the aromas without overpowering them.

Giving Potamisi the same percentage as Assyrtiko was deliberate, Kontizas argues. “I did not want it to be overshadowed by Assyrtiko. Potamisi needed its own space to show its fruit expression and its own Cycladic character.”