It’s time to take Greek sparkling wine seriously – 8 bottles to try

by Yiannis Karakasis MW

For the last two decades, sparkling wine in Greece evoked two very different images. One was of Champagne at life’s big occasions and celebrations, and the other was the “Champagne” of nightclubs, remembered first for the spectacle rather than what was in the glass. Somewhere between the two, Greek bubbles struggled to define their own identity. Yes, they had a presence, but we rarely appreciated them as much as we did Assyrtiko, Agiorgitiko, or Xinomavro.

Elsewhere in the world, sparkling wine has increasingly become a welcome part of everyday drinking. A wine habit that people enjoy as an aperitif or pair with tasting menus well beyond the amuse-bouche sequence. It has moreover earned a place at the table, often complementing the most challenging combinations. If you're in doubt about a wine pairing, my motto is ... choose Champagne! And it never disappoints. This is especially relevant as the wine industry as a whole comes under pressure. According to the OIV, global wine consumption in 2024 was estimated at 214.2 million hectolitres, down 3.3% from 2023 and at its lowest level since 1961. Meanwhile, market research suggests that sparkling wines have proved more resilient than still wines in key markets such as the US, the UK and France.

This is where I see an opportunity for Greece. What interests me, and what I find fascinating, is whether Greek sparkling wines made by the traditional method can find their own voice. A unique, authentic personality through specific varieties, high elevation and interesting terroirs. There should also be a good reason to make the wine.

Amyndeon in Macedonia, Northern Greece, is a wonderful place to start, with vineyards between 650 and 750 metres and a cool climate that creates ideal conditions for quality sparkling wines. With varieties such as Xinomavro and Assyrtiko, the region offers many hallmarks of excellent sparkling wines such as naturally high acidity, bright aromatics and elegance. Domaine Karanika has played a major role in building Amyndeon’s reputation, while producers such as the historic Amyntas cooperative, Scaperdas Frères, and GiOinos (both efforts spun off from Kir-Yianni and Alpha Estate, respectively) show what Xinomavro can offer in both sparkling rosé and blanc de noirs styles. These are wines with plenty of character that pair beautifully with food. Karanika’s newly released Blanc de Blancs from 100% Assyrtiko adds another dimension to the discussion. It raises the quality bar and gives Assyrtiko a vote of confidence beyond the usual suspect of Xinomavro.