SuperNormal: Manousakis Nostos Grenache 2017
There is no doubt that all the excitement regarding Greek wine focuses on the indigenous varieties; Assyrtiko, Xinomavro, Agiorgitiko, Malagousia, Vidiano, Robola, Savatiano and friends. Which doesn't leave much space for international varieties to shine. But, this little space does exist, and it is up to producers to realise that it is there and needs to be filled. The magnificent Nostos Grenache from Manousakis winery in Crete manages to do just that. The winery was founded by Ted Manousakis and is now run by his daughter, Alexandra Manousaki, and son-in-law, Afshin Molavi (pictured below). It built its reputation on cultivating and vinifying Rhône varieties, that have adapted amazingly well to Crete, but is lately expanding to Assyrtiko, Vidiano, Romeiko and Muscat of Spinas.
The bush vines of Grenache Rouge are planted on schist and sandy clay soil, which is rich in iron and magnesium, at 600m altitude. The latter brings the much-desired freshness to the wine. But there is more. Following a 15 day maceration, the wine is aged in large 3-tonne oak casks (Grenier Foudres) and is bottled with no filtration and stabilisation. Afshin talks passionately about this Grenache; ''Grenache has always been a variety that I loved and when I got involved in the winery in 2012, it was the one I have changed the most. We used to age in barriques, with 30 days maceration, but since one of my favourite winemakers is Emmanuel Reynaud (Rayas) - I was always very jealous of his wines - I was inspired to make a more elegant, lighter Grenache, with more finesse and freshness. Laurence Feraud (Domaine de Pegau) has been our consultant for some time on the viticultural part, and the pruning. So, together with our in house viticulturist Yiannis Galanis we have managed to refine the wine, and see an even better future for it.''
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