El Celler de Can Roca: A Wine Lover’s Experience in Girona

By Yiannis Karakasis MW

El Celler de Can Roca in Girona is one of the world’s most admired gastronomic destinations, but for a wine lover, its meaning goes even further. With three Michelin stars, a legendary cellar, and Josep Roca’s singular vision, it offers one of the most complete food and wine experiences in Spain.

The restaurant is the life’s work of three brothers: Joan, who leads the kitchen; Josep, maître and sommelier; and Jordi, the wizard of desserts. They are three distinct personalities that coexist and collaborate like a finely tuned orchestra. All three are present and active, which alone elevates the experience. It is no coincidence that the dinner begins with an ingenious broth poured in three layers, each reflecting the personal touch of a different brother.

The first surprise is the wine list. This isn’t just a good list – it’s a wine library. Presented on a trolley, it features three large, heavy tomes – one for whites, one for reds – all updated daily with availability. You could easily lose hours exploring around 7,000 wine labels. Prices vary based on your choices, but I found them quite reasonable. As Josep told me, many wines come straight from wineries, making them more affordable.

In such a setting, you surrender. I started with a champagne – Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru – an ideal partner for the creative, sometimes surreal Catalan cuisine (not coincidentally, the Dalí Museum in Figueres is just a short drive away).