01 May 2019

SuperNormal: Tissot Patchwork Chardonnay 2017

I have contemplated the question of value and wine for quite some time and it seems to me that wine has become an increasingly expensive affair, in the last few years. The prices of quite a few wines have rocketed so high that they have become more of an asset, a luxury brand or a trophy, rather than a drink made of the complex development of grape juice that is meant to be savoured, appreciated, shared and, most of all, enjoyed. And despite the fact that these wines are ultimately beautiful it makes you wonder if wine is losing (in some cases) its essence and perhaps its soul.

Nowadays, as soon as a wine becomes well known and sought after, it takes little more than a few vintages before its price spirals upwards. And, I'm not only referring to the top regions of Burgundy, Bordeaux and the Rhone. This column arose from my perception of an empty space. The legendary wines are often praised by all, but can be afforded by very few. Nevertheless, there didn't seem to be much written about wines that are distinctive, interesting, and sensibly priced. Suggestions of wines with character, that are actually an amazing bargain for their quality. So, here I will be focusing on beautiful, top value, wines that should not be missed. Of course, I had to set a reasonable upper limit; exactly the point of this column. The limit for wines from Greece is up to 15 euros and for those from around the world, up to 35 euros. Welcome to the world of super+normal.

Tissot Patchwork Chardonnay 2017

If there is one thing that describes the Tissots it will have to be ''terroiristes''. One of the pioneers in the Jura region, they founded their estate in the 60's. They support a holistic, hands-off approach, which is focused on doing the least possible so as to allow the terroir to express its authentic fingerprint. Their Chardonnays are amazing, fairly priced, and distinctive. Among these 'Patchwork', which is made of vines grown on clay and limestone soils, matures in a mix of neutral oak and 10% first-use barrels for a year. It is both a stand out and a bargain. A superNormal wine.

Lemon coloured. Despite its youth it is already expressive, mineral, smoky and focused. On the palate it shows much elegance, despite the 14% alcohol, and a lovely saltiness and definition. Very pure, energetic and precise. A supreme Burgundian style Chardonnay.

A wine made with love and passion produces an emotion...

* The wines of Tissot are imported in Greece by Mr. Vertigo. SRP 29 euros.

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