Decoding Xynisteri

According to Wine Grapes Xynisteri can be considered indigenous to the island of Cyprus, where it was first mentioned as Xinisteri in 1881 and was placed among the better quality wines of the island. Several years later, in 1893, a French ampelographer refers to Xynisteri as the best and most widespread variety. Fast forward 124 years later and Xynisteri retains both its prime position in terms of plantings and its quality perception. 

Xynisteri, with its 2.410 ha, covers approximately 20% of the total plantings of Cyprus and is the most planted white variety.  It is second, over all, following Mavro. It is a zesty variety full of freshness and delicacy. The name, which translates as sour in Greek, is, more or less, a euphemism, since, in reality, Xynisteri lacks acidity. Nevertheless, with a little help from higher altitudes and a little fine tuning during wine making, it manages to give balanced wines with spotless, delicate fresh fruit, in the stone fruit aromatic spectrum, complemented by herbal or floral nuances. The wineries of Kyperounda, Tsiakkas, Zambarta, Vouni Panagia and Vassiliadis Expressions produce some of the most charming examples of the variety. 

But, what about regional styles? What are the differences between Xynisteris grown in the western part of Cyprus, in Paphos, vs those grown in the central part, in Krasochoria or Pitsilia? Getting under the skin of a variety and unfolding its diversity and the multiplicity of its expression always excites me.

During one of my last visits to the gorgeous island of Cyprus I had fascinating and extensive discussions about the styles of Xynisteri with key players of the Cypriot wine industry, ie. wine makers Sofoklis Vlassidis, Marcos Zambartas and Minas Mina (Kyperounda) and sommeliers George Kassianos and Vassos Manoli.  The conclusions are noted below, although I plan to taste more Xynisteri in my upcoming trip, to further confirm my original impressions.

• Paphos region: Laona Akama including Kathikas village (northwest of Pafos ) is situated at 400- 650 m, is comprised mostly of limestone soils, and receives 610 mm of rain per year; the climate is temperate. The wines have a distinctive saline character possibly because of the combination of sea influence, limestone soils and high altitudes. East of Pafos lie two more subregions: the lower lying Diarizos valley west/southwest of Troodos mountain, that produces fruity and forward Xynisteri  due to the alluvial deposits of the rivers, and the more complex sedimentary and igneous soils; the higher altitude vineyards of mountainous Vouni Panagias - Ambelitis (that rise up to 1144 m in steep slopes) produce more mineral and tight wines (due to the mostly clay soils in the valley, which give way to more limestone dominated soils with altitude). As a rule of thumb Paphos produces mineral and citrusy Xynisteri in Laona Akama and Vouni Ambelitis and more forward wines in Diarizos.

• Pitsilia: Rugged landscape with viticulture on the edge. 11 villages, nestling below three  mountaintops – Olympus at 1,950 m, Madari at 1,600 m and Papoutsa at 1,400 m. Soils are igneous (ophiolyte) with high percentage of sand (pictured below at Kyperounda vineyards). Wines here seem to express more body, tension and minerality.