Papagiannakos Old Vines Savatiano Vertical 2015-2023

by Yiannis Karakasis MW

Originally published in Greek Wine Explained 2025

Vassilis Papagiannakos has pursued a dream for decades: to restore Savatiano’s reputation. He has achieved this through dedicated effort and some of Attica’s most unconventional and surprising wines. Years ago, the idea of Savatiano reaching such complexity as we see today would have been unimaginable. Yet, Papagiannakos has altered perceptions with his 2008 Savatiano, igniting a discussion about the grape’s untapped ageing potential.

Fast forward to 2020, Savatiano is no longer confined to the shadow of Retsina but asserts itself as a variety capable of greatness. A single-vineyard wine called Vientzi followed, and then came the apotheosis of Savatiano in an anniversary bottling called Honores from the 2015 vintage. This wine deserves special mention, as it was featured in last year’s report among the “must-chase wines.” A Savatiano of many layers, revealing something new with each sip. Aromatically, it combines ripe apple, honeysuckle, and toasted brioche. It is complex, energetic, and long on the palate—all at a modest 12.5% abv! Its structured profile and crisp freshness promise another 8–10 years of ageing potential.

Vasilis Papagiannakos and his commercial director, Stefanos Georgas, continue working hard to spread the message about Savatiano’s greatness worldwide. The winery farms 16 proprietary hectares and manages another 60 under contract, producing around 380,000 bottles and exporting to 28 countries. The wine that carries the torch of the variety is undoubtedly Savatiano Old Vines, with the famous rooster (kokoraki) on the label. I am thrilled to report on this vertical tasting. Unfortunately, all the bottles before 2014 were sealed with plastic corks that were unsuitable for long ageing.

Savatiano Old Vines 2023 ***^
Light, crisp and refreshing, the 2023 comes from a challenging vintage yet offers immediate pleasure and drinkability. For earlier drinking over 2–3 years.