Can T-Oinos Make One of the World’s Great Rosés?

By Yiannis Karakasis MW

Few rosés in the world have real character. Most follow a familiar formula built around pale colour, bright fruit, easy-going freshness and ageing potential that rarely extends beyond the summer. There is nothing wrong with that. But such wines rarely belong in a serious wine conversation.

A great rosé, though, asks for more. It needs depth, firm structure and length, along with enough individuality to avoid the stereotype of the poolside drink. It should work at the table, develop in the glass and remain interesting beyond the first sip. This is why wines such as Sylvain Pataille’s Marsannay Fleur de Pinot, Tondonia's Rioja Rosado and the Bandol rosés of Château de Pibarnon and Domaine Tempier, among a few others, feel so different. They are spherical wines, whose colour is only part of the story.

That was the context in which I wanted to taste the two rosés from T-Oinos across several vintages.

Mavrosé, a blend of 80% Avgoustiatis and 20% Mavrotragano from vineyards at 400 metres, is the more immediate of the two.

Clos Stegasta Rosé is considerably more ambitious, combining Assyrtiko, Mavrotragano, Avgoustiatis and Malagousia from three vineyard sites.

Was it whether these were simply two accomplished rosés, or whether, across vintages, a more ambitious idea was beginning to emerge?