Ekho Wines: a fascinating new project highlighting old vines from areas of historical significance

By Yiannis Karakasis MW

The Ekho wines project is a new venture that deals with old vines from areas of historical significance. "It's a  transportation of the past and its reflection in the present", comments Lefteris Anagnostou, the oenologist and co-founder of Ekho wines, with extensive experience in Santorini wines. He explains that this is an idea he had been toying with for at least four years, with the foundations set in 2020. 

"The idea of the project is based on the intent of re-approaching wine regions of historical significance in Greece and restating their expression through the vinification of particular plots. These areas have powerful bonds with vine-growing and winemaking, lost over the centuries, and in most cases, produced wines that were renowned in ancient times. The historical bonds are the unifying element, whereas the old, own-rooted vines, of both known and unknown varieties, are the instruments of this transportation to our days using a contemporary approach."

Naxos was his starting point, which Anagnostou describes as a staggering and wild landscape with a plethora of old vines, some of which are found on very steep terraces with absolutely no access and are over 120 years old. "I have been working with Konstantinos Makridimitris since 2018, the owner of the wineshop Oenohoros and a local producer. Together we have been searching for vines and just generally….running around," he continues.

Naxos, an unexplored vineyard territory, has a rich heritage of varieties entirely unfamiliar to most. There is a white variety, Karaibraim, recorded, however, as a black grape variety in the bibliography, which means we do not know precisely what it is. There is also much Potamisi, Aidani and many of its variations like Moscaidano. There are two more varieties, one rather provocatively named Bastardiko and the other Tzemeri which I have never heard of, but of course, one can also find the better-known Assyrtiko, Fokiano and Mandilaria. Most are own-rooted bush vines. Some literally crawl on the earth. (you can find photos from Anagnoustou archive at the end of the article)

Vines can be found on clay-loam soils, except in the northern part, where they are mostly sandy near Apeiranthos (considered the birthplace of Dionysus), Philoti and Kommiaki. "We buy grapes from contracted growers with who we have steady working relationships. Unfortunately, many abandoned vineyards are in danger. For the time being, we vinify outside the island, but there are plans to start a winemaking installation".