Savatiano

Βy Yiannis Karakasis MW

At a glance

Synonyms: koundoura aspri, sakeiko, savathiano, doubraina aspri, perahoritiko, stamatiano

Attica (Markopoulo, Spata, Stamata, Mesogaia (middle Gaia), Keratea, Pallini, Kantza) is its hometown, but it is also grown extensively in the neighbouring Boeotia. In total, its plantings cover more than a sixth of the Greek vineyard (10,500ha out of a total 63,900). A variety with moderate aromatic intensity, reminiscent of apples, white peach, and even melon when the fruit is riper. Seems to age well, and over time it develops a honey-toasted Hunter Valley Semillon character. Very cleverly oaked or resinated will make the wines remarkably versatile partners to food. 

For many decades it has been associated with low-quality Retsina. Still, nowadays, more outstanding care in the vineyard and the winemaking process have assisted the variety to show its character. Consumers are discovering the delicious wines, which come at fantastic prices. Its name is probably its most significant disadvantage. Maybe if we called it Savatianon Blanc (!), it would stand more chance of succeeding commercially. Unlike other varieties (e.g. capricious Xinomavro) Savatiano is easy to handle and to acquire the desired style. 

History

Its history starts with the Kampas winery and the Marko cooperative, followed by Vassilis Papagiannakos, who believed in the variety at a time when nobody else seemed to. In 1935 Andreas Kampas, the patriarch of Savatiano produced the first Greek wine destined for ageing in Kantza, Attica. Guess the variety! 100% Savatiano from free-run juice. The book "Andreas Kampas, "the Patriarch of the Mesogaia", tells us that the wine was sealed with sealing wax and aged horizontally for eight years before its release; if I hadn't read this information with my own eyes, I would have found it hard to believe. 

Around the same time, Marko (an agricultural cooperative founded in 1831 by the residents of Markopoulo) operates its first winery in 1914 and its first bottling plant in 1917. Between 1900-1910 Vassilis Papagiannakos' grandfather bought land and started to work exclusively with vines. "He struck a deal with two taverns in Athens to cover his distribution, but as the business grew, my father slowly took over. He worked in a more organised way and in 1919 he established a better structure. Actually, this we regard as the founding date of our winery" says the producer. 

Château Matsa, an emblematic Greek wine, was released in 1982 (following the acquisition of the Kampas company by Boutari Wines) under the supervision of Roxani Matsa. A wine made exclusively of Savatiano in the unbelievable amount of 200,000 bottles. And, as I like to point out, the icing on the cake is that up until 1992 there was a PDO for Savatiano, Kantza PDO, which no longer exists. This all took place almost 40 years ago, because after those times Savatiano went downhill, both in terms of quality and consequent reputation. Any sense of reliability in the wines made of Savatiano was almost lost until a few years ago. Fast forward to 2020 we have a Savatiano comeback even for Boutari and Matsa; the 2019 vintage indicates a complete reversal of fame and interest in the variety.

Savatiano up-side-down

So what has taken place in the last five years?

• More efforts of the producers of Attica to produce wines from low yielding old vines that exceed 50-60 years of age, as the majority of the vineyard was grafted following its destruction by phylloxera (1959-1961). Most of these are dry-farmed and produce yields that do not exceed 35 hl/ha, on rocky or limestone soils which are responsible for wines with more character.
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• The appearance of aged Savatianos by Vassilis Papagiannakos (2008, Ktima 2012), Mylonas (2013), Vassiliou Fume (2011), Markou (Kleftes 1997), Aoton for vintages 2015 and 2017.
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• The Gold Medal at the Decanter 2014 Awards for Stamatis Mylonas' vintage 2013; an award that had never been given to Savatiano until that time.
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• The appearance and also marketing of a single vineyard Savatiano called Vientzi by Papagiannakos.
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• Communication of the variety through the actions of Wines of Athens.

Vassilis Papagiannakos has put enormous effort into making it clear that Savatiano can rise to better quality level if treated with respect and if sourced from suitable mesoclimates. He says that "in Attica with low yields, un-irrigated bush vines of 50 or 60 years old you can get wonderful results". 

The Variety

Not as aromatic as Malagousia offering apple and pear aromas along with herbal nuances, according to producer Stamatis Mylonas. Papagiannakos highlights the inherent fruity character of the variety that always shines through, whereas Dimitris Georgas, a biodynamic producer from Spata, emphasises the secondary aromas which are very intense. He also underlines the richness of the body Savatiano wines offer. Sotiris Ginis from Aoton winery argues that the expression depends on the location of the vines; nevertheless, there is a common thread. "It is not a particularly aromatic variety with elegant notes of lemon blossom, pear, apple, and sometimes jasmine". 

A productive variety that, according to Stavrakas ampelography can yield 140 hl/ha (up to 70 hl/ha for dry-farmed vines). Pruning is essential; however, research is lacking concerning vine growing decisions. "Most of our actions are empirical", confesses Ginis. It is typically harvested late August to early September depending on vintage conditions and terroir location. Stavrakas informs us that veraison usually takes place in the first ten days of August and harvest after Sept 10th. Papagiannakos points out that it is the perfect variety for climate change as it is disease resistant to both mildews and climatically adaptable to drought conditions.   

Terroir

Despite common belief, Savatiano shows sensitivity to terroir. Ginis highlights that Savatiano matures differently from Pikermi (north of El. Venizelos airport) downwards. Indeed, the final wine depends on individual producer methods, but it can be said that:

Keratea in the southern part of Attica, mineral style, an altitude of 180-320m with soils that are clay-gravel over a bedrock of limestone. 
Mesogaia (Koropi, Markopoulo, Spata) ripe style with lower altitudes up to 100m. Yields usually of 25-35hl/ha.
Stamata to the north is a very different terroir for Savatiano with a higher altitude (420 meters) compared to Mesogaia and Keratea. There are about 30ha of old Savatiano vines, according to producer Anna Kokotou, which mature later due to the colder climate.

Beyond Attica: Planted in Boeotia and expressed mainly by Samartzis, Muses Estate and Akrioti winery.

Wine Styles

Classic fruity style focusing on primary fruit (stone fruit and tropical fruit), a style championed by Papagiannakos. 
Mineral and herbal, more esoteric and lean a style adopted by Mylonas and Kokotos.
Creamy either with lees or oak (few examples with oak as it is has proven to be commercially unpopular).
Skin contact, seen by Aoton (The must is fermented with the skins, but every day a part is removed; think of it as a partial saignée method.), Nikolou and Mylonas.
Pet Nat or Sparkling with interesting examples by Papachristou and Nikolou.
Vrastos, a traditional sweet wine that blended Savatiano with Mandilaria used mostly for religious purposes (Holy Communion). By heating the grapes, sugars were concentrated to21Βe followed by prolonged fermentation for months or years, according to Ginis. Papagiannakos explains the resulting sweet liquid could be added to a fresh-fermenting wine, thus attaining 140g/lt residual sugar.